The day’s only real climb (around 600 feet) took me to Motovun. At the top, I walked the town’s steep, medieval, flagstone streets to Konoba Mondo, another intimate bistro famous for truffles, for my second round. I sat on the terrace where “Tartufi” (truffles in Croatian) was painted on a wooden sign on the wall. This time I had steak topped with slivers of black truffles, an Istrian red called teran, and the tavern’s knockout panna cotta in a wild-berry sauce.
